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KZ3

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About KZ3
 
 
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  • Birthday 11/11/1974
 
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  1. I have 22 28" long Goldtip XT hunters 7595s for sale. 16 are fletched with Blazers. The other 6 are bare shafts. They were all purchased this summer and most were never shot. $150 Shipped to your door.
  2. KZ3

    Pir Circuit

    It sounds like you may go another direction now, but you might be able to use the same type of code that is used for a keypad. Each key has a different resistance to it and the picaxe measures the voltage and assigns a number value to it. In your case you would have the picaxe continually take a voltage reading at the PIR and if it doesn't fall within a set trigger value it would ignore that reading. Once it goes above or below a set value it will take that voltage reading and you can plan a trigger event. I actually like the idea of being able to do that because I think you could in theory really dial in if it's a false reading or not. Set it so it has to have a voltage reading of whatever for so many readings before it triggers. I'm not sure how it gives voltage readings as far as if it's a set idle value and gradually goes up or down as the target comes into the area, or if it has a set idle value and set motion sensed value. Maybe something like this, but it's a total guess. Main: do wait_for_PIR: readadc 2, junk if junk < 100 then wait_for_keypress ‘ value can be whatever the voltage is when the PIR is idle. Then set < or > value when it senses motion. pause 100 ’ adjust to take readings at whatever time length readadc10 C.2, PIRvalue sertxd ("PIRvalue=", #w1,cr,lf) select case PIRvalue case > 300 : inc PIRcount case < 300 : PIRcount=0 end select sertxd ("check=", #b1,cr,lf) If PIRcount=3 then goto CamPower endif Loop
  3. I did get a chance to finish up one project using the XRF and ran out for just a quick test last night. The XRF used as a receiver was placed in a watertight box and then that box was placed in another box. My remote transmitter was also contained in a box and running off two AA batteries. I set the receiver box on the ground behind a tall snow bank in the driveway so it wasn't direct lOS. I had reliable control out to 160 yards. This is with just the stock wire antenna. When I get a chance I will see what exposing the antenna on the receiver will do and getting it off the ground.
  4. Moser, this system would be great for that pending the range. I know I still have to get out and test the real world limits of it. I will try and get out and do that. Obviously my testing won't compare to yours as terrain will be different. At least I can test some situations and if it's not working then you know. The other option would be to try and get the XRF transceivers up in the air a bit. I know being off the ground helps the range. You could also use them set up as repeaters. Say 3 bait stations send to one xrf placed on top of a hill where reception is possible. Then that xrf relays the information to your cabin.
  5. My guess is you have the shutter and power grounded all the time. For this camera to work the power must be grounded out the entire time for it to shutter a pic. Removing it from ground will turn the camera off. So, I would guess if you had them both grounded all the time it would turn on and shutter a pic when the battery is put in it. Just a guess.
  6. No problem at all. I've gained a ton of knowledge from people on here, so it's a chance to give some info back. If anyone has any questions just let me know. Gunboy as far as distance goes it will depend greatly on terrain. I found for me a data rate set at 1.2kbps for the picaxe was the most reliable. I would guess the furthest I tested it was about 200 yards and didn't go any further. There is some testing done with picaxe and the xrf showing it working over 3000 yards. That obviously is open line of site. He also used a data rate of 1.2kbs. Here is the information on it. XRF If I have time this week I will see how far I can go.
  7. KZ3

    Diptrace

    Without having the program on this computer I will add what I know from memory and add to it later. I know you can draw a schematic and then transfer it to the board drawing program and I did do that once, but I find just starting in the board program easier and just placing the connections manually. You will have to go through the top menu options to find where in the drop downs you can find these options as I don't know off hand. You can set your units and design rules you want before you start your project. Design rules are basically an option when you check your board at the end for problems, which I will mention later. You can also zoom in or out on your board to make things easier to see and change the scaling which set the spacing between components and traces. To start I add my board outline. You can click and drag it or enter in say 2 inches by 3 inches and it will draw it for you. Then at the top you will see a list of libraries and you can go through those lists and the items on the left hand side will change. Say you want to add a header to your board. You go to the top and find the headers library and select that. Then on the left you will see a long list of header options. When you find the one you're looking for and move your arrow over it and the image will appear on the screen. If it is what you want just move it over and place it on your board wherever you want. You just repeat that with every component you want to add. You can also click and hold on the part and hit the spacebar to rotate the part. You can right click on the component and it will give you lots of options for naming it or the pads. You can also change the side of the board it's on, or lock it so you can't accidentally move it, or if you use the auto component placing option you can lock a component in a position on the board, and it will stay there and place the other components around it. Ok, once you have all of you components placed either inside or outside of your board I just start clicking on what connections I want. Such as click on the positive battery header position and connect the line to the positive contact for my picaxe. I just go through and place all the connections I need and it will look like a big spider web mess. After you are done you either have your components placed where you want on the board, or if they are outside of your board you can now choose to select to auto place your components. It will then try different combinations according to your connections to place your components. Sometimes there isn't enough space and it won't do it until you increase your board size. After it places them in you can move some of the components around for a better fit and shrink the board down. You can also say lock all of your headers around the outside of the board so when you run the auto placement they won't move from where you want them. Now that all your components are place I run the autorouter option. That will draw all of your traces according to what you connected. Sometimes it can't route a certain connection and it will just show the blue line still. You then have to click on the trace button on the top and manually draw it. You more than likely will change some of the traces it drew as well. Just delete what the program did and draw one yourself. You can also click on the trace and make it larger if you want or slide a portion of it if it's to close to another trace or pad. Once you have it looking like a board you can go to the top and click on check design rules. It will then go through and check for errors based on the rules you set in the beginning. Such as distance between traces and component pads, or the edge of the board. If it finds an error it will circle it in red and then you just go back and move what you have to. You then can click on net connectivity and check to make sure all your connections are valid. You can also right click on the pads and make them any size or shape you want. If you run a manual trace you can add a static via to it. This will allow you to start your trace on one side of the board and then continue it on the other. It lets you work around other traces so you don't cross over. Your board is now done and what I do to order it from OSH Park is the following. I create on my desktop a folder to store my project gerber files. I go to my project on diptrace and at the top I go to file export gerber files. I select export all and select the folder I just made. It will then go through all the files it will export there and you just keep hitting the save button until they are all in the folder. Then you have to go back and select file export N/C drill file. You select both sides and it will pop up some notice and just click yes and it will export a file called through into the same folder. That's it as far as exporting your files and you are done with diptrace. You now will go into the folder you made and open it up to look at the files. The only files you need in there are Board Outline, Bottom, bottom mask, bottom silk, Top, Top mask, Top silk, and through. The paste and assay you can delete. After you do that you right click on the folder and zip it. This will place another folder on your desktop showing it's zipped. Go to OSH Park website and create a user and login. Then click on get started now. Then click on select a file from your computer. Select that zipped folder and it will say it's processing. You can then name your project. If it's good to go you will see several pictures of your board and it will show you what the different files look like. If you are OK with it then you can save it as a project and order it whenever, or order it right away. It will give you the price for 3 boards and you can pay with paypal. It will also give you an estimate on which upcoming panel it will be added to. It's usually added that day or the next. You are done! That project will be stored in your account and you can reorder it anytime. You will then get email updates on when it was sent to the fab, when they expect it back, then when they receive it back, and finally when they ship it with a tracking number. That's it!
  8. KZ3

    Diptrace

    Just wanted to start a thread on Diptrace. I know some are interested in board design and ordering so hopefully we can get some information on how to do that here. I will be adding what I know to this topic.
  9. One other thing I wanted to point out which is important if you want to do two way communication. If you want to have a remote receive and send data to a camera and the camera also send and receive data. As well as if you want to develop a network of cameras that communicate with each other. You can build a command unit with whatever sensors you want on it and time. Say you have a food plot with a video cam and a camera on it. You have on your command pod a PIR and a CDS. So, the pod takes readings on light. It can tell the camera it's light out and to take a nap until I wake you up at night and tell the video camera to wake up and take video during the day. It can also remote trigger your units if a deer walks past it. You can also have it record how many pics or videos each one has on it. So, you know if there isn't much on the camera I don't have to back in there to check it. There are a ton of different things you can do like that. Anyway, if you are going to set anything like this up the downfall to picaxe is the serin hang. I wish the XRF would pulse a signal when it receives data to say, "hey I just received data go to serin to receive it" but it doesn't that I know. Once a picaxe chip enters serin it stays there until it receives data so you can't run anything else on the chip. The work around is using two chips. So, I run a 08M2 to strictly receive data. All that chip does is sit in Serin looking for data and when it receives it I have it notify my 20m2 that I have data you need. That way my 20m2 runs my camera program like normal and when it's just going through the main code it checks if the pin is high from the 08m2. If it is then it will send a pulse back to the 08M2 which basically is saying I'm in serin now give me the data. The O8M2 sends the data over and goes back to looking for more. Then the 20m2 can process the data and respond if it needs to with serout. So, I have the RX line from the XRF to the 08m2 and the tx line to the 20m2. I hope that make sense. It's a way to run a program and only receive data when it's ready to.
  10. Here are a few pics of it in a project I have. It's a remote and you can get an idea of how I hook the two boards back to back. The other pic is of one connected to a relay board. I hit the button on the remote and it triggers the relay.
  11. Just wanted to post a few pics to give an idea of size and how it hooks up.
  12. Glad you are interested TCSCOUT I know you could contribute a lot of knowledge to this. Hopefully there will be some users and can contribute to some of the things this can offer. The Osh Park is a very good service. I probably have ordered at least a dozen different times from them with no issues at all. The communication they provide is excellent as well. They send you updates on everything so you know when you can expect your board back and when they ship it and provide tracking. It's an excellent service. I will just start a new topic on Diptrace and how to place on order with Osh Park.
  13. Here is the picaxe code to change the settings on the xrf. at 9600 baud #picaxe 20m2 #no_data setfreq m16 Symbol LED = b.1 symbol XRFinput=b.6 'input line of XRF/ERF symbol XRFoutput=b.7 'output line of XRF/ERF symbol XRFbaud=T9600_16 'baud rate setting of XRF/ERF symbol XRFok=b2 '0=timeout from XRF/ERF '1=OK '2=ERR symbol temp1=b3 symbol temp2=b4 'Put XRF/ERF into AT command control and configure it high XRFinput pause 4400 'pause 1.1 seconds serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("+++") pause 4400 'pause 1.1 seconds serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("AT",cr) gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif 'Put XRF/ERF into default settings serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATRE",cr) gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif 'You can insert your own AT command settings here serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATDR 3",cr) ‘Baud rate 2400 gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif 'You can insert your own AT command settings here serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATBD960",cr) ‘Baud rate 2400 gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATWR",cr) ‘Make permenant gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif 'Exit from AT command mode serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATDN",cr) Main: Pause 5000 sertxd("XRF programmed") end checkXRFok: 'Check response from an issued AT command serin [800],XRFoutput,XRFbaud,temp1,temp2 XRFok=0 if temp1="O" and temp2="K" then:XRFok=1:endif if temp1="E" and temp2="R" then:XRFok=2:endif return at 2400 baud #picaxe 20m2 #no_data 'When changing settings only change what is different t 'this was at 2400 baud and had to remove ATBD 960 because 'it was at 2400 already thus it did not program 'you have to set the baud to what is progammed stock 9600 'if at 2400 then set to 2400 setfreq m16 Symbol LED = b.1 symbol XRFinput=b.6 'input line of XRF/ERF symbol XRFoutput=b.7 'output line of XRF/ERF symbol XRFbaud=T2400_16 'baud rate setting of XRF/ERF symbol XRFok=b2 '0=timeout from XRF/ERF '1=OK '2=ERR symbol temp1=b3 symbol temp2=b4 'Put XRF/ERF into AT command control and configure it high XRFinput pause 4400 'pause 1.1 seconds serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("+++") pause 4400 'pause 1.1 seconds 'You can insert your own AT command settings here serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATDR 3",cr) ‘Baud rate 2400 gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATWR",cr) ‘Make permenant gosub checkXRFok if XRFok=0 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF timed out"):endif if XRFok=1 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded OK"):endif if XRFok=2 then:sertxd("XRF/ERF responded with ERR"):endif 'Exit from AT command mode serout XRFinput,XRFbaud,("ATDN",cr) Main: Pause 5000 sertxd("XRF programmed") end checkXRFok: 'Check response from an issued AT command serin [800],XRFoutput,XRFbaud,temp1,temp2 XRFok=0 if temp1="O" and temp2="K" then:XRFok=1:endif if temp1="E" and temp2="R" then:XRFok=2:endif return
  14. It's roughly 1.25 x 1.5 inches. I thought there would be quite a few picaxe people on here but maybe not. If you have a serial LCD module I can help you out with code if you need it. I never messed around with the non serial units. I mainly use the OLED from here now. They are simple 3 wire attachments. Power, ground, data.
  15. One last thing. I'm not sure if anyone uses this service but I have a while now and It's pretty nice. You create your board files with whatever program you want, I use diptrace, and then upload them to this site. OSH Park What they do is add your boards to other users orders and combine them into one big order so you get it cheaper. It has the design rules listed and the only catch is you have to order at least 3 boards of the project at a time. That board I just posted I think was 9 bucks for three of them shipped to my house. I just ordered another board on the 8th and will be getting it on the 18th to give you an idea on turn around time. They also have shared projects on the website. There's a ton of project boards on there that if you are interested in you can order. Some are hard to know what they do or what they are for. Anyway, just thought I would share another way to get boards made. I'm not sure if this service is cheaper than another one or not. Any questions on the XRF let me know.
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