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bigbucks

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About bigbucks
 
 
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  • Birthday 10/05/1966
 
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    http://www.locked-bucks.com
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  • Location
    Illinois
 
  1. bigbucks

    Liquid Nail Forms

    I thought I remember someone offering LN forms for sale. I've dug through a lot of threads and came up empty. I was thinking it would be better to just buy a mold than make my own.
  2. bigbucks

    Rcdavis Board/ 2800 Slave

    I forgot to mention it in my original post, but I did test it after I did the hack. I had nothing mounted in the case and it seemed fine, with the same set of AA's I have in there now. The voltage on all 4 is right around 1.51V. I also didn't think of it when I posted this thread but I did put the 470K Ohm resistor on the 2800 board. Is that just to help power consumption? Maybe I could snip it off. I have also considered lithium. My daughter (uhh, me and the wife) did a science experiment last year to see what the most cost efficient batteries were between alkaline, Nimh, and lithiums. While the lithiums out-performed the alkaline by a long shot, they still were not quite as cost effective. If I remember right it seems like the lithiums started off at around 1.7 Volts. First thing I am going to do is switch to a brand new set of Duracells and see what happens.
  3. bigbucks

    Rcdavis Board/ 2800 Slave

    Thanks Rick, Sanford, and Bassman for your replies. Bassman, thanks for explaining how the code reads the CDS. Had to read your post a couple times but I think I understand now. Rick, this is a 2 flash unit. I went ahead and took your advice (didn't have C cells but had freshly topped off Nimh D's). I alligator clipped them to the board and powered it on 4 different times. It took from 20 to 25 seconds every time to get the single blink of the LED, just as it should. I then disconnected the D's and put the AA's back in. Same thing, about 23 seconds. When I get the 'armed' blink the unit functions perfectly every time. What really stinks is I put this all into a pelican 1010 so there is no room for anything but AA's. I wanted to keep this thing as tiny as possible. Another interesting point- when I turned it on this morning my wife asked my what the heck that high pitch was. I couldn't hear it until I put my ear right up to the capacitor. But it seemed like it went on for more than 20 seconds and I never did get the single blink. That tells me Rick's assumption is probably correct and the cap is not topping off. Bassman, I think during testing from now on I will just tape the CDS. When I was doing my original testing I didn't have it mounted yet and sometimes it was below the counter in the dark and other times it was laying on top. I need to be more consistent. So I am to the conclusion the board is operating correctly but now I don't know what to do about the battery situation. Would I be crazy to try to replace the capacitor with a smaller one? Even if I would sacrifice flash range it would be worth it to me to be able to use the AA's that I designed everything for. Or could I wire in one AA Nimh at 1.2 Volts in series to try to up the voltage a fuzz? Just thinking out loud but I really want to keep everything in the Pelican.
  4. I recently completed a slave build with a Viv.2800 and RC Davis Controller. This board was very user friendly and the instructions were clear. After I completed the hack on the 2800 and got the control board hooked up I tested it and everything was good. A week later I got a small pelican case and installed everything. When I turned on the board the LED blinked twice but never did give the single blink signaling it was armed and ready. I tried to get it to flash using a digital camera but it wouldn't pop. So then I turned it off, drained the capacitor and fired it up again. It flashed twice and I heard the cap charge up, but no single flash......UNTIL over 3 minutes later. So I flashed a camera in front of it and it worked, but then it kept flashing every few seconds continually. Next I took my hand and shaded the PT and it stopped. If I would take my hand away fast it would flash just off the lights in my kitchen. I then took my hand away slooowwly and it was fine. I turned the lights out and it popped off every time the camera flashed. The I turned the lights back on and it was still fine. So then I took a flashlight and ran the beam over the PT and it popped off again. Now, it's been MANY moons since I built a slave unit (with Jon's board), but this seems overly sensitive. I turned the board off and back on again and the results were the same, the single blink of the LED took over 3 minutes. I left it on overnight and this morning it worked as it should, until I turned it off. When I turned it back on I never did get the single LED blink. I did other things through the day and came back this afternoon, turned it on and I got the single blink within a few seconds, and it is working fine again! I find it hard to believe there is anything wrong with the hack or the wiring since it works correctly sometimes. Could there be something wacky with the chip on the RCDavis board? Also, does the chip go through some sort of a learning process each time the power is cycled? I just don't understand why I don't get the single blink of the red LED for several minutes sometimes, just a few seconds sometimes and sometimes never. Oh and I am running 4 AA duacells and the voltage is fine. Puzzling.
  5. I have 3 D380 units with Pixcontroller boards in Pelican 1060 cases. They also have been camoed with liquid nail. These are units I DID NOT build. I have tested them and they work, but I would like to put them out in my woods to get some pics from them to post. I am just making this post to see if anyone here would be interested in them. I should probably keep them but I have enough to keep up with. They need some touch-up on the camo job, plus they are not the absolute neatest homebrew I have ever seen, but I'm sure they would do the job and make a decent cheap unit for someone. They have 4 C cells to supplement the cameras, and the Pix board is also powered by 4 separate C's. I use rechargeable AA's in all mine, but I live where I hunt so swapping batteries is no big deal for me. If someone wanted to, it would be simple to swap the C holders for AA holders. I am not going to be including batteries or Smart Media cards with these, and they won't have attaching straps. Bungees or rope ratchets would be best for mounting. I have 3 homebrews that I built 10+ years ago running these Olympus cameras and they are still going today. They still take good pics just like they did when I first built them, so I know these cameras are durable. But like I said, I didn't build these and I have enough. I am thinking $80 each shipped to your door, or $200 for all 3. If that is too much just let me know! But if I can't get much out of them I will just keep them, no biggie. If anyone is interested just let me know, then I will post some pics of them. Thanks!
  6. bigbucks

    Slave Flash Question

    Thanks for clearing that up 212, and yes, Jon used a photo diode.
  7. bigbucks

    Slave Flash Question

    I'm still confused as to what the PT is. I think it is the device that sees the camera flash so it triggers the slave, but years ago we used a LED for that. If someone could explain that to me that would be great. Also, what is the smallest enclosure these will fit into? I don't want to have unscrew the enclosure to replace batteries all the time so I was leaning towards using a RS 4 AA holder that would plug into the slave enclosure.
  8. bigbucks

    Slave Flash Question

    Thanks so much for all your advice. Thanks for the photos of what the different units put out. YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST. I am going to build 1 or 2 slaves that are external but attached to the main camera unit. I have some homebrews that just don't have enough flash range so it's time for improvements. I think I have settled on the 2800. Time to order parts.
  9. bigbucks

    Slave Flash Question

    By the way, that little fella in my avatar was taken with the camera mentioned above.
  10. bigbucks

    Slave Flash Question

    I've been out of the loop for awhile (couple years actually), but I am considering building a slave flash or two. It looks like the 2800 or 3700 are the top picks, but what are the board options? I have a D380 rig that I built in 2000 or 2001 (can't remember) with a slave built with jon's board, and it is still going today. It has taken 1000's of photos through the years trouble free. I have a few commercial cameras now but the best quality pics STILL come from that 10 year old unit! You can't beat the clarity of the photo when there is a slave flash involved. Oh, BTW, I don't want to open up a debate here (or maybe I do) but I have that slave flash unit on the same tree as my Jazz cam, overlooking a scrape. Last week I got video's of at least 3 different bucks working that scrape while the 380 taking their pic every 15 seconds. Pretty neat to watch the video and see their reaction, which was none. That slave was popping off right in their face and they didn't give a crap. Not even a flinch. Those bucks were 1 1/2, 2 1/2, and 3 1/2. I guess I'm old school, but I still prefer the white flash over IR. Too many fuzzy pics with IR and I've had lots of deer see the red glow and bolt. Just my opinion. I found some of the videos on youtube about the slaves, but I would like a little input from the members here to see what they prefer.
  11. bigbucks

    35mm Question

    I partially agree with you Egbert. This is my buddy's 35mm, but I still have one I like to use. I put it in a place that I can leave it for at least a month. There's not a lot of activity there, but I always get some neat photos. It's nice to stick a couple Duracell AA's in it and leave it without having to worry about it going dead. Also, a roll of 24 will take about 3 weeks to fill up where I put it. I usually run 2 rolls through it a year. Another plus is the speed. For some reason this camera always gets the deer but hardly ever has coon or squirrels on it, don't know why, but I generally get about 22 pics of 24 that are deer. So I agree with you about the lag time, but I really don't use my 35mm for scouting purposes anyway, just to get good pics.
  12. bigbucks

    Do Trail Cameras Spook Deer?

    That buck was already about to pop cause he could smell the camera or the guy that hung it.
  13. bigbucks

    35mm Question

    I have an older trail timer 35mm. The camera went belly-up and I can't find any online. The camera has no name on it other than trail timer, but I assume it is a Samsung. I have another trailtimer with a Samsung 22s and it fits right in and works perfectly, so that's the one I've been searching for to no avail. There are similar cameras out there for cheap but I don't know if they would work. Any tips? Is it worth it?
  14. Here I go picking you guy's brains again. My buddy has a Wildview Xtreme5 that is giving him problems. He has called the 800 number that's on the door of the camera and got nothing. He has also sent them numerous emails about where to send it for service but still no reply. Is this the same company as Stealth? I thought they were better about things these days, guess not. There must be a problem with the main board, cause it keeps resetting the date, and it won't do any of the functions with the control buttons that it used to. Anyone know if parts are available? Thanks again fellas!!
  15. bigbucks

    Jag's Ir Array Leds

    FznYupr, I really don't have any room for that kind of modification. I built these in seahorse 120 cases and my 6 volt battery is in there as well. I have 2 of these to repair. I read some of your thread about your pulse driver, but it is a little over my head right now. Haven't had time to read through the whole thing. Will it not work with my 6V setup?
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