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    • Badgerbuckhunter

      Prayers for a longtime Member   11/05/2017

      The Church mass shooting that happened today, was Peggy Wardens Church. She was one of the people killed today and her grandson was shot in the arm and is in surgery. Lets keep her in our thoughts and prayers. I made a topic in the "Cabin" I will keep everyone updated as I get information.
     

Rick Gray

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About Rick Gray
 
 
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  • Birthday 04/08/1972
 
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    Oregon
 
  1. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    I like the design of his flash circuit. It may have a lot of potential. Difference he was doing was that it looks like a single pulse which is great if you know when the camera is going to go off. We need to turn it on for a few seconds during the picture taking process. You could easily start with this circuit and start pulsing it from a picaxe chip. Current is nice but really unless you are going to do something with that data it is useless. Here is the code I was using from the picaxe to flash my driver board: symbol LEDpin=1 disablebod setfreq m8 Low 0 Low 2 Low LEDpin low 4 main: high LEDpin Pause 1 Low LEDpin pause 19 goto main You can play with the pause timing for off and on to see what works best for the LEDs you are using. Taking them to failure and you will know what they can handle.
  2. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    I had a 503 ir that I could use for a quick test with the 1010 array that will show you somewhat of the challenge you are facing. Here is the first picture. It is really dark. But if you look at the details of the picture it is using an exposure of 1/30th a second and iso 200. Here is the second picture. It appears much brighter but the exposure is 2 seconds with an iso 100. Really slow and would blur most any motion by the animals. These were taken just holding the camera and the array. I aimed it at the wall of the house looking down it just to give it something to bounce off of. The 503 is not know for being a good night picture camera without a flash. Looking at the fstop it is 3.2. For the dxg cameras we are get an fstop around 1.2 or so.
  3. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    The pulse driver should be the brightest option but the most difficult to do. Current drivers and just hooking up LEDs are very easy. The 1010 array should run from 6 to 8 volts the higher the voltage the brighter the array would be. So that would likely be 5 or 6 nimh batteries to run the array. Each camera is going to be different so we will likely need to do some testing for proper lighting. The reason I have these test arrays is what I usually do is mount them on a board and go outside with the camera and turn more and more of the arrays on while taking pictures so I can see how the camera responds to the light. I am thinking this comes down to more what lens the company used and programming for the auto settings of the camera. I have not had the best luck setting a bunch of program settings on the camera like on the flash camera builds. Most of the commercial cameras that I have seen have had between 50 and 100 5mm leds.
  4. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    If you decide to move ahead with testing let me know and I can send you some of my test arrays that I have built (no cost to you). You could try them with some IR cameras to see how they perform. Don't expect these arrays to be anything great. 2 of these arrays I only built for testing and have never used them in builds. The 30 led array is the same thing I have in the dxg camera and you would likely need 2 of these to work with any still camera. The 1010 led is bright for what it is but the leds are too close together and give a flash light effect. This setup may be the best hope for use with a still camera. It is using a pulse driver so the led is on for only a millisecond but has double the voltage across the led. This gives off a lot of extra light but is only on 1% of the time. The other 99% it is off and cooling. This happens 100s of times a second so to the camera and the eye the light appears to be on all the time. This is the same thing that the commercial cameras do. If this showed enough potential I could show you how to build the circuit up to build a larger array. I even used a picaxe in this one so you might be able to work code if needed. The picaxe does produce a flicker in the light though from time to time. The black leds are the 950nm leds and again by itself is not very bright. The 30 led array could likely be hooked up to 5.5volts and survive without a driver for testing (if it did not - who cares since it did not cost you anything). Let me know if you would like any of these arrays for testing and I will send them to you. Each one is a little different and will need some explaining to get them to work for you.
  5. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    Here is a look inside with everything in it. The case only opens 90 degrees so can't layout a whole picture. Just the battery holders are in the door section. The project box I think is the 6x4 size which holds the array. The array is the 30 of the 10mm 940nm with a 1000mah driver. This should give you an idea of how much space you will have to work with on the pelican 1170.
  6. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    Here is a dxg build I did with an array in it and the 1170 case. Case is nice and big with lots of space in there.
  7. 2015 Blackflash Revisited

    I have done a lot with the IR Leds and cameras. I have not paired up a p32 with IR Leds but did do a 503 with 950nm LEDs. The thing I like about the LEDs are that they do not consume any battery power until used. That means I can sometime get by for a whole season with one set of batteries for the LED array. The largest problem is the arrays usually need to be very large to put out enough light for the camera to see well and give you a good picture. Usually what happens is the picture is dim enough that the iso end up being real low and the exposure takes a long time resulting in blurred pictures from the animal moving. This has not been a problem for me because I can usually tell what the animal is and what time it is moving which is enough information for hunting. As far as the ccd image sensor in cameras, I have tested them out to 1000nm LEDs and the cameras could all see the light from the array. Trying to get blocking material for a flash I had picked up some lens for the dslr that blocked up to 950nm and tested that for flashes. It worked but watching the flash go off I could see small amounts of light bleeding through areas that I had not sealed perfectly. Here is a link to the type of material I used with the flash: http://www.ebay.com/itm/52mm-950nm-Infrare...ooAAMXQhpdRvuDo It was actual glass and not plastic so you need to be extra careful cutting this or it will shatter. With my 503 test camera, I noticed that the deer did not see the array light but they could hear the camera shutter on the camera that the 503 makes. The deer would stand in front of the camera for 4 or 5 minutes at night bobbing their heads trying to figure out what was making the sound and if it was a danger. I think the flash would be the same in that even if it was completely invisible the flash charging would make that high pitch sound alerting the deer that it is there.
  8. Safari/flash Backpacker Power?

    Ralph is right why we did not use 9v and a regulator. First thing with the board was to keep the cost down. Adding the regulator and circuit would have added additional cost to the board. The voltage for running the board without running a regulator is determined by the PIR sensor which has a minimum running voltage of 3v and the picaxe which has a maximum voltage of 5.5v. If we run with just 2 batteries at the 3v as soon as the batteries start dropping below 3v the pir sensor may stop working. Next battery up was a lithium ion battery at 3.7v and I thought that may be a bit confusing and would also need some extra circuits to make sure that the battery was not drained ruining the battery (which would add cost). So the next logic battery option is 3 batteries at 4.5v so that is what I designed the safari to run on. The reason I was recommending the AA batteries was my estimates for power use was that AA batteries would last 5 to 6 months taking around 500 pictures a week. With AAA batteries the is cut in half with the same use. The flash backpacker really adds no appreciable power load to the board and it is the code that make the biggest difference in power usage. Over a years time of running the board and flash backpacker the together (with the current flash code) it should only decrease the battery life by 3 weeks and that is all the 500 pictures being taken at night.
  9. Start of the year and spring is usually when I have the most time to work. Currently working on these things: Safari board in surface mount - plan to design all the safari backpackers to surface mount designs this year. Dxg125 daytime only Dxg125 huntertom exchanger and (30) 10mm 940nm IR led array. No amped audio just because there is not enough room for it and all the batteries. If they don't last a month or more I don't like my builds to much. Plan to do these builds next: Duel Kodak v1003 build. IR for night and color for day. Code should be usable by all cameras (types 1 - 4) and the opto backpacker. This should be useful for anyone wanting to do a duel build in the future. Ralph has been working on some wireless backpackers that he has sent me and I am going to try to create a wireless slave flash that could be added to any safari build. (hoping to get to this by May - June time frame) after that the build time becomes less due to the summer time and scouting.
  10. Array Driver

    It should be ok with the 1000ma driver. Just test it a bunch to make sure the LEDs do not burn up with the amount of time you will have the array on. Just start with the shortest video length and move up to the length you want. You can feel the LEDs and if they seem warm to the touch then maybe shorten the length. If they are warm, see how quickly they cool off.
  11. Array Driver

    The DC forward current on those LEDs are 100ma. That is the proper current to run those LEDs at with the current board setup and with this driver you would only be powering each leg to 87.5ma. To figure this out you take the total current of the driver which is 700ma (.7a) by the total parallel circuits which is 8 in this case and that comes to 87.5. So if you only use 21 LEDs in 7 parallel circuits you would be come out to 100ma which would be perfect for this LED. The driver will work but it will be much dimmer unless you take out a parallel circuit of 3 leds. You could over power them with a different driver like a 1a (1000ma) driver with all 24 LEDs and it would be 125ma (1000/8) The would be over bright this way. The only problem with this is that the LEDs may burn out if they overheat. Nights are usually cooler which helps in this situation because we really are talking about physical heat that damages the LED. Running current through anything produces heat and these LEDs dissipate 500mW of heat. So if you are worried about overheating because you are over powering the LEDs the best thing is to put a longer delay in between the recordings. Go to a feeder mode and likely the LEDs would be ok. If you know you don't get a lot of triggers at a time then even this may not be necessary for the cooling. The second part of picking a driver is the voltage. These LEDS have a DC forward voltage of 3.2 to 3.4 volts. You have 3 in series for each parallel leg. So you would need 9.6 and 10.2 volts to be able to run them correctly. Usually you should add a volt loss for the current regulator. so that would take us to 10.6 to 11.2 volts needed to run the regulator and LEDs together. With a SLA battery you are going to be fine since its voltage is usually 12 to 13 volts with a load on them. With 3 18650 the voltage is around 11v with a load on them and that is going to be usable for a short period of time and then when the voltage falls down low it really will not be able to regulate the current properly thru the circuit. 4 18650 would give you around 14 volts (LED driver can take 35v) which would drive the LEDs great and it would take a long time for the voltage to drop below the 11.2 volts of the upper end. Most of the mosfets that drive the LED arrays that the boards can use can usually take these higher voltage without issue. The current again is the downfall since even a mosfet can only dissipate so much heat. Hopefully this helps you and gives you a little background in how to pick a proper driver to go with your LEDs.
  12. Array Driver

    to know for sure we need more information on the LED and battery you are using. The driver needs to be paired per the configuration of the LED and battery voltage you are using. The 10 2W leds the driver reports is probably 10 2w leds in series with 35 volts applied to it. The board you are using is using has 8 parallels of 3 in series. With that driver you would have 87.5ma across each LED which is likely less than it is rated at.
  13. Led Array Position

    I have mounted the array below and above the camera and it has not made a lot of difference. Only thought is that if you mount the board sideways where it fits best you have only 4 led wide array and normal mounting it is 6 LED array. The light may not spread as far with it mounted sideways and only 4 wide so it may not cover the area you would like. When experimenting with arrays I usually build one and test it at night with the camera so that I know what it is going to be like before mounting or deciding on a mounting in a case.
  14. Traffic Light Gun Safe

    I was hoping to see pictures of the project once you were done. It looks great.
  15. New Exchanger For The A503

    Good job Ralph, I figured I would have to draw up a bunch diagrams or something for people to get what was needing to be done. I have looked at the code and it looks good.