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ghoot

Need your input.

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Butch,

You gotta do it...it's calling your name! :D

 

Bond,

Should be able to make the solder points easier to get to, and it can be easily set up to be used with or without the kill switch.

 

buckboy,

I really like the idea of having an alternate method of setting the board up in sub zero temps. The LCD is rated to -4F. Below that, it is still scrolling through the settings, but it may display funky characters, so you don't know what setting you're on. Maybe a way to reset defaults and then just instructions on how to set it up "blind". So you would count how many times you pressed the button to know where you are in the menu.

 

knobby,

I agree that time lapse is a feature that many wouldn't use, but there are a quite a few that take their cams out at different times of the year and it would give them something to do with 'em. :P

 

Arch,

You're talking way over my head for controlling the LCD. :bag: Right now I just type: LCDOUT "HELLO" and "HELLO" displays on the LCD. I have looked at the serial LCD's, but the ones I've found range from $30 to $50 each.

 

tree sight,

Yes, there will be plenty of room for new delays. For the 6 wire camera control, I saw where someone mentioned the other day about rigging theirs up so that when the camera was powered off, it also disconnected the batteries. That sounds like something that may be a battery saving feature. Also, say you wanted to tap into the zoom, you could do that. I just want to have it so that it can be a very flexible board to be prepared for "the next great cam" when it shows up. Actually, I'll have 8 or 9 more pins than before, so I'm hoping you guys will come up with something to do with them. :D

 

jcferrit, treetop,

The price of this design wouldn't change much, if any. The new chip and LCD would be a little more, but if some switches can be eliminated, that will help even the cost up. Switches are expensive little parts. I'm thinking about looking into setting it up with the "jog switch" like JAG has on his board. I haven't actually seen one, but it sounds like a good way to go.

 

Here's a few other things that could be added:

 

- Low battery indicator

- Different time delays for day and night (I think this is one of the features that duradeer mentioned)

- A setting for no refresh (212 gave me this idea. This way, the batteries aren't being used, then when the cam powers up, have it wait for 10 seconds or so to snap the pic. With this setup, and maybe also disconnecting the batteries, the batteries would last for the shelf life of the batteries minus the power for how many pics have been taken. May be a great feature for security camera setups too.)

 

Thank all of you for the comments. Still have pins and code space to use, so keep 'em coming. :ThumbsUp:

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Gary, for my input ( for what it's worth). The external kill switch is more trouble than what it's worth. Go into walk mode straight away on power up, for a set time period without the kill switch. Don't give the punters the option. The LCD could be brighter for use in bright light conditions. Soldering connection pad could be bigger and easier to access but only for us half blind old coots. Other than that, it's a great board and easy to use.

 

Russell

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Add a temperature setting to be put on pic when taken....................Along with the time/date stamp and maybe even a name.......................... :2cents:

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i'll buy one when its ready ! :)

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Lots of good ideas. Lots of opinions. Here are a few of mine.

 

I would like a time lapse option. :cool:

 

I sometimes mount the kill switch inside sometimes outside.

 

I like the idea of a battery indicator. :59:

 

I like the 1040 sized case better than the 1020, as mentioned before security is easier on the 1040.

 

Who knows we may see a smaller cam in the future that can be used.

 

A more readable LCD would be nice but I can live just fine with the one that you use. :

Edited by mbowerma

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Gary I think the board is great as it is but I like the idea of a low battery indicator and I personally like the kill switch on the outside for checking pictures. The only thing I definately would like to see is an LCD that is a bit darker and easier to read like the original green one instead of the blue. All the other features sound great but I think cost will be the overall factoring decision for many on board choice.

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Hey ghoot - it's not that hard - even I figgered it out (I'm a near total beginner with the PICs!). I've got a bunch of links on LCD control if you're interested.

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Hey Ghoot,

I like this brain storming going on here. That no refresh sounds very interesting to me, ( give 212 a star ) and disconnecting the batts would hopefully eliminate external power. A 10 second trigger on the cam would not need a slave to refresh either. Some but not all slaves would charge this fast, if not just set the delay longer. Would work great at a feeder, mineral lick, or scrape setup.

 

tree sight

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:cheers:

 

I must be alone here, but I think the board is just great the way it is. If anything you could add a faster delay of only 3 seconds and 6 seconds and do away with anything over 1 minute.

 

Three seconds for the 380 and 6 seconds for the 41.

 

It also fits in a 1020 case.

 

I can see your reasons for changing, as the cameras keep changing also, whatever works for you is fine with me.

 

cliff

 

edit....just thought of something, is it possible to use the pir in a plugin type setup so the pir could be angle at a 45 to the board like the old 425's. Something like this might allow it to be fit in a 1020 case.

Edited by wildebeast

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I'm with wildebeast, I think the board is great just like it is! Walktest option would be good. Slave control would be good. Time lapse, don't care. 6 wire, don't care. serial camera control, don't care. Leave the external motion switch. Power switch on battery holder or board, doesn't matter. Control of camera on/pff power, yes. 12 characters instead of 8, doesn't matter. Easier to see LCD would be good. Not fitting into a 1020 is a huge deal to me, I really like the 1020. :yes: :fear2:

 

If you do redesign the new board and it is bigger I hope you will still offer the old one, if not let us know so we can stock up. :cheers:

 

Just my :2cents: .

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I may be wrong on this but, if you have it set up to disconnect batteries when camera turns off, wouldn't lcd screen default back to being on when it powers back up like it does when you remove batteries or isn't that an issue w/ the s40 and s600?

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ghoot,

any ideas on how deep your your board may be? I'm just wondering if I can stack another board (say a slave flash board) on top of or underneath to save space.

 

Will your board write all values to eeprom? My question is, will the board save all values if I pull the battery? The flash and flash board I plan on using will operate off of 6v and I would love to use the same 6volts to power your board.

 

I know its pretty early to answer these but something to keep in the back of your head.

 

Ed W.

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What about making the LCD (and maybe buttons) removable? Some might use some type of weatherproof connector and plug it in without opening the case to display how many pictures have been taken, battery condition, etc.

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