dkirk

Vivitar 2000 (31057 board)

11 posts in this topic

Finally got my hands on a Vivitar 2000 that has one version of the 31057 board (thanks to Hags member Rtwill78).

 

Below are the previously posted low power mods (step 1 and 2 below) which work great, and I also recommend removal of the 22K ohm resistor (step 3 below) to totally isolate the bounce back circuit components that are no longer used. I have also included instructions on elimination of the large external yellow capacitor (step 4 and 5 below).

 

Low power mods.

1) Remove the 1Meg resistor (or clip one leg), or remove the Neon light.

2) Remove the 10K ohm resistor (or clip one leg).

3) Remove the 22K ohm resistor (or clip one leg).

 

Note : you can also eliminate the bounce back detector by unsoldering the wires that go to it (or cut the wires), and this was done to the board in the pictures shown.

 

post-2799-1157555079_thumb.jpg

 

 

Removal of the external 3.3ufd capacitor (large yellow capacitor)

4) Unsolder the wires on the board that go to the large yellow external 3.3 ufd capacitor (or cut the wires).

5) Jumper pin 1 and pin 2 together on the SCR (part number CR3AMZ).

 

post-2799-1157555095_thumb.jpg

 

 

Note : The board shown in the pictures was not in working order when I received it and I had to replace a few of the components (that is why the inverter transistor looks small compared with the original transistor that is found on the 31057 board. The original transistor was a 2SC3420, and I replaced it with a 2SC2500 which I had on hand). Also some of the wires may not be located the same as if the board were in original condition, and there are a couple of jumpers on the back of the board that were needed to repair melted traces.

 

I believe there are two different versions of the 31057 board, so the mods I show above are for the board with the copper trace pattern shown in the above picture.

 

(As always modification of commerical products is done at your own risk. Use extreme caution since high voltage exists within flash units. Take proper steps to assure all energy has been discharged (from the capactiors, etc.), before touching any component within the flash unit.)

 

Enjoy,

Don

Edited by dkirk

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Any idea if this will work for the DF500 board? the jumpering and removing the yellow cap, that is. :unsure:

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Any idea if this will work for the DF500 board? the jumpering and removing the yellow cap, that is. :unsure:

 

 

Hello HN,

 

Yep, you can remove the yellow cap that is used with the DF500 board. I previously posted the instructions, and here is the link. http://hagshouse.ipbhost.com/forums/index....c=20873&hl=

 

Really makes for a nice clean package when you get rid of the external junk.

 

Don

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:ph34r: Sorry, I searched for that the other day and didn't find it. thanks! :D

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:ph34r: Sorry, I searched for that the other day and didn't find it. thanks! :D

 

085.gif

 

thats a good one.......

 

 

085.gif

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dkirk, looking at your picture on the df500 board is T2 pins 1&2 going left to right. I am electroniclly disabled :lol:

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I had a dead one that Don fixed for me so I took a pic of it hope it helps By the way I got the cables in the mail for you yesterday Anthony sorry just didnt make it to the PO sat

Edited by treetop

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Looking at the face of T2 (looking at the face with writing), the pins go left to right from pin 1 to pin 2 to pin 3. (this should agree with Treetops picture)

 

Don

Edited by dkirk

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Great !!! Thanks for the help guys.

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Thanks for this info Don.. I have a hard time trying to get everything smashed into a slave flash container...

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Thanks for this info Don.. I have a hard time trying to get everything smashed into a slave flash container...

 

scruffnbeez,

 

Yep, we can run the Viv 2000 and the Viv 2800 using just one board, the flash cap, and the flash tube and eliminate all of the other components since we are not using the bounce back feature.

 

Makes for a much cleaner build, and also much easier to trouble shoot.

 

Don

Edited by dkirk

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