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dgrad

First Test Pics

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top of camera

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The tree in this first pic is twelve feet from the camera. The camera was programmed to ISO 200. All I have done to the pic on the left is add date. I used the tonecurve feature on the software that comes with the camera to increase the flash level. Tonecurve does more than just increasing brightness. You can never get the pic like this just by increasing brightness. Then I divided the picture into four quadrants by drawing an imaginary line down the center vertically and another across the center horizontally. I cropped the top right quadrant out of the picture which is close to 25 percent of original. Then I cropped part os the center out of that quadrant for the other pic. And that pic is less than 5 percent of the original

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Edited by dgrad

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Original pic is 4896 pixels by 3672 pixels. Pic on left below is 2412 X 1840, and pic on right is 911 X 772. you can do the math and calculate exactly what percentage each pic is of original

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All I have done to this pic is add date. base of tree in center is ten feet. ISO 200

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I decided that a nice camera like this would do more good in the field than laying here around the house. And I have been waiting to try this build for four months, and I am anxious to see if the camera can be hacked. As soon as I determine that the camera can be hacked, I am buying the other camera on ebay if it is still there. It took me two hours to figure out how to get the camera apart. There were three internal screws that were hard to locate. Two screws secured the battery box and the shutter assembly to the front case. To get at those screws, I had to remove the lens assembly, and that is the next step after removing the LCD frame. I am not going to attempt to save the shutter switch or the shutter button. I am going to dremmel the center contac that depresses the shutter button, and also dremmel away two plastic studs that move the zoom lever. Then I will glue the shutter button to make it stationary and then drill a small hole in the center of the button to take the four wires out. I will mount a three wire servo on front of the case like I did with the H90. shutter and focus will go on one servo pin. Blus is focus and orange is shutter. When I remove the metal plate and expose the focus and shutter contacs they will already be near the center of the switch. Red line is how I will route power to the switch. The yellow line is the record wire that will glue to the switch and exit with the other three wires. The record wire will also glue to the board and exit the assembly behind the mode dial. There is already a small space that will allow that wire to exit. Servo will be Power, shutter/focus, and record

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Before taking the camera apart, I tested the record button. The mode dial was set for video and the camera was in standby mode. When I barely touched the button the camera started recording. There is no focus on that switch. I also pressed the shutter button while camera was in standby mode. A message appeared on the screen saying, "press movie button to record video. Then while recording you can press shutter button to take pictures." I tested the record switch. red line is contac where record wire goes. Yellow line is where wire exits shutter assembly. That copper frame around the switch is ground. The black screw gives you an idea of just how small the switch and contac really is. It would be hard to connect to that contac without having a solder bridge to ground. I used a magnifying glass and a toothpic to coat that copper band with a very small amount of Bondo. I have done this before and it works great. The Bondo is easy to remove without damaging the board if you need to. I soldered a wire after the Bondo set. I powered up the camera, and when camera was is standby mode, I shorted wire to ground and camera started recording video. I will finish this Monday with a clear head and hopefully everything works well when finished. I took lots of pictures and made notes, and next time I take this camera apart it will be easier.

Bob

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Nice work Bob, these newer cams seem tougher and tougher to solder to. I'll bet some nail polish would work on that copper pad and may be easier to apply then the bondo.

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The first pic shows the shutter switch with the metal plate removed. You can see a small amount of the shutter and focus under the yellow plastic. This switch is roughly 3/16" from corner to corner, In the second pic, I removed some of the plastic exposing the connections. The connections are now up a bit off of the board and farther away from the small board traces and components. I had the board under a bright light, and I was wearing my reading glasses. I used a large sewing needle to carefully pick away at the plastic until the contacs are exposed. These contacs are actually larger than the two H90's that I have done this way. On the third h90 I ended up removing the entire switch and soldering the wires to the board and that way worked also. I have confidence that this hack will work because this will be the fourth time I have done it. I am glad I practiced on $25.00 cameras first before attempting this one. I have already been working on the case. Because the camera is so large, I am mounting it in the main case shooting out the back. I am leaving the rubber bladder in the case. When the baldder is in the case, the camera slides in and fits snuggly. I drilled the main case for the LCD board standoff screws and the HPWA. Then I trimmed the bladder out of the way. When I drill the holes for the snorkel and flash I will trim the bladder again. The camera will be sitting on an aluminum angle even though the camera does not move, and the camera will be bolted to that angle. I need the camera bolted to the angle for my ground connection. I am not hacking the camera for externals or doing the microphone hack. I made a new remote BG-1 battery holder for this build that works nicely and looks nice. I made that out of a battery holder taken from an H55 parts camera. The sound system in this camera is awesome, and I am not messing with it. You can adjust the sound volume in the menu before recording videos. You can also make adjustments for wind noise reduction and background noise reduction. When the camera is mounted in the case, there is a space about 7/8" above the camera for the pop-up flash. When set for video, the flash will not pop-up. I made a strip of dense foam rubber that tucks in above the camera when set for video. The rubber bladder and foam rubber creates a sound chamber surrounding the two microphone openings. To vent that chamber to the putside, I used a 3/8" galvanized pipe nippel one inch long. I drilled a hole slightly smaller than the nippel that lines up with the two microphone openings. Then I screwed the nipple through the case and trimmed the bladder again. On the outside, I screwed a 3/8" cap on the nipple. The cap has two ridges that help a pipe wrench grab it. I screwed the cap on as tight as I could get it with my fingers, and then I backed it off until the two ridges were in the horizontal position. then I marked the six o'clock position with a Sharpie. Then on the bottom corner of the nipple, I drilles three holes, 8:00, 6:00 and 4:00 o'clock. The holes aere drilled at a 45 degree angle upwards. No water gets in but plenty of sound does

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Edited by dgrad

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This is a pic of an H55 build. The pipe nipple and cap are just below the fresnal. On the h55 and h70 builds there is an electret microhone gooped inside the nipple. Sound is awesome and no water gets in.

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Edited by dgrad

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That's a great looking build !

Thank you 1 really appreciate the compliment ! Hopefully I will have pics of a new build to post oon. Shutter asembly is hacked.. This afternoon, I will put the camera back together. Hopefully the camera still works and the hack also. The two blue wires are shutter and focus. Orange is power. White is record movies. White wire is not soldered to board, it exits near the mode dial to be attached to the movie switch on reassembly

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I have been dreaming about this day for four months. My goal now is to post pics from the field before the Super Bowl. There is a metal frame on the rear case that corresponds with the copper frame around the record movie switch. I coated the corner on the board with black liguid electrical tape after soldering the record wire. I also coated that corner on the metal frame on the case. When I took this pic I was waiting for it to dry. I got the other camera in the mail today. It is just as nice as the first one. There was supposed to be black spots on the screen, but I can't find them. I took the camera out tonight for tests, and everything is great. I bought the other camera from the same seller, and it will be here Wednesday. The hardest thing I have left to do is to figure out how to operate Gary's LCD board.

Bob

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This camera will be finished Friday, and then it goes to the field. I took the camera out for test pics to check the flash opening and the snorkel last night. That is the second camera that I bought in this picture. I can't manually snap pics through the case with the hacked camera because some fool messed up the shutter switch. I will finish up the inside of the case tonight, and tomorrow morning do the 3-D camo and paint. I hope to take it to my neighbors deer feeder Friday afternoon. I like leaving the bladder in the case because it makes things quiet inside the case. The first time I powered up the camera outside for test pics, I could not hear the lens extend and that was with the case open. I removed the battery holder and motion kill switch from the LCD board. I will use one of my homemade battery clips and there will be two switches on the bottom of the case. These switches are rocker switches similar the the one Mark sold, but they are better switches. They click when you push them, and the two pole switch has a white dot on the side where you push to turn it on. This will be the motion kill switch. The other switch is identical in size, but it has three poles. The center pole is where the wire from the board goes, and movie record and shutter wires on the other two poles. This switch has a red dot on one side. I will make that side the movie record side since the movie switch also has a red dot on it. PVC rings Gooped around the switches recesses them and protects them from the weather and also prevents turn-offs.

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Edited by dgrad

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I am ready for a break from this camera until after the Super Bowl. I have decided to take it to my neighbor's deer feeder this afternoon. Monday I will bring home and do the 3D camo and get it ready for a good set up in the mountains. I will be checking the camera twice per day starting tomorrow morning. I have two more of these, and soon I will make an order to Gary so I can build two more. The locals here are pressing me to get the camera in the field. Thety want to see what it can do, and so do I. This is an awesome camera, and it is fast, VERY FAST.

Bob

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I like the LCD board. No more Bigfoot Boards for me.

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