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Rick Gray

3d Printed Parts And Trail Camera Building

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I thought some of you may find this interesting. I am working on a day only DXG 125 build. The DXG has the curved bottom and I wanted to make a mount to match the curves of the camera. Most cameras are pretty much square so this has not been something that I have needed to do yet. Thought of it for the novelty but have never really needed to print out a camera holder. I was able to print out a top and bottom holder that is close to the cameras curve.

 

Here is the camera in the 1060 case. I am going to try using the velcro to hold it in place but if needed I can switch to a rubber band that will for sure work.

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This is the rubber band holding the camera in place.

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Here is what the parts looked like coming off the printer.

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This is just after the parts were cleaned up. Just a little trimming of the plastic stringers.

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So far the parts are looking like they are going to work out real good.

Edited by Rick Gray

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This is not the only item I have created for a camera last year when testing the slave blaster I made a holder for a IR filter. With paint on the printed part it has held up fine out in the elements. When the filter is not mounted on the outside I have a small holder inside that holds the filter ready to be used.

 

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All these parts I created myself in 3d modeling software and just printed them out ready for use. With the price of 3d printers coming down this maybe something that will make it into our hobby as a possible tool. At least some of the people trying to make money in the hobby may create custom parts and sell them in the future. Just thought I would post up a little about my 3d printing some parts that I have used in some builds.

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Man, some people have all the fun toys and the brains to use them. Can you print me off about 10 P32 no glass IR lens pieces that are the right thickness not needing to be shimmed? :roll2:

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Yeah that would be a lot of fun to own a 3D printer. Your so lucky..... :coolsmiley: Nice work on the holders!

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Man, some people have all the fun toys and the brains to use them. Can you print me off about 10 P32 no glass IR lens pieces that are the right thickness not needing to be shimmed? :roll2:

 

If this would be possible, it sure would neat for the p41 & P32s.

 

Rick, could something like this be replicated? The one on the left?

 

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That's really nice, Rick. With the molded parts, you know the camera will be in the right place every time.

I have used Velcro to hold a 125 in place. I have the center portion of a 8 inch strap gooped to the case. The ends wrap around the camera and 'grab' each other. It holds the camera good.

 

Is your 3D printer store bought or homemade? Any chance of a pic??

 

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The problem with printing something as small as the P32 no glass is the resolution on printers. My printer resolution is .4mm which is fairly large compared to the part. The newest printers are .1mm resolution which still may not be accurate enough to get the focus right every time. What might work real well is casting the part. Here is a casting kit that could easily get the resolution of the p32 part.

 

http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Ca...20Casting%20Kit

 

Once you had the part with the focus correctly you would want to do a 2 part mold of it and then cast some. When making the model and part it may be necessary to do a vacuum to remove any air pockets that could cause mold imperfections.

 

If there was a large demand for a printed part I did then I would probably cast the part so that a lot of them could be made in a quick period of time. It takes about an hour to print this part out but it would only take 10 minutes once the mold was created to cast a part.

 

Alumilite comes in many colors so black is an option for casting the part. Before doing 3d printing, casting parts was my main process of creating small parts. Usually made them from wood or clay and then cast them to have a plastic part that was stronger than the original glued together wood parts or clay.

 

Here is a picture of my printer. It is a makerbot industries printer. This was one of their kits back in like 2008. You actually assembled the printer. The put 3 hours for a build time but it probably took more like 12 hours. Most of that was just referencing the instructions to make sure I was doing things right. Once I got the printer assembled, the first printed object came out just like it was supposed to. I was surprised how strong the parts actually were. I was expecting them to be weak and I would have to cast parts to have a strong part. I have not had to cast one part since I have got the printer since the parts are usable right from the printer.

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Here are some pictures of the parts being printed.

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For anyone interested. Makerfarm has some kits for $500 with a 6 inch build platform. I have bought one of the 8 inch build platform designs as an upgrade to my printer. I don't plan to stop using the one I have since it still works good but I am interested in the higher resolution and larger build platform.

 

If you do get into doing a kit, expect to spend a lot of time figuring out how to use 3d modeling software. Most of the free software does take a bit of time to learn but once you do you can make and print out your own custom parts. Paying for software may cut the learning time down but there is going to be some learning time. A lot of already made parts can be found online at places like thingiverse or cubehero. Modify the part to your liking or just print it the way the part comes. This is something that I may use more and more for camera building. I even thought of doing 3d camo just printing out parts on the printer and gluing them to the case.

 

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Cool stuff Rick! What 3D modeler do you use? I use SolidWorks.

 

One of the guys here got some snorkels 3D printed and got me looking into adding them on the site. I have started looking at 3D printers and really like the looks of the Airworlf 3D HD Would have to sell a lot of snorkels to pay for it, but could do other cool stuff too. This one blows all the other "entry level" printers away on speed and part size and prints layers down to .06mm thick. The Ultimaker 2 has .02 layer thickness, but the airwolf beats it everywhere else. Hard to decide. Oh well, don't matter if I gots no cash to buy it. :P Maybe in a year or so.

 

You can see the speed difference on this chart. The Cubify printers got high rankings here, but if you look at reviews of people that actually own them, they hate them.

Edited by ghoot

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Wow, always nice of you guys to rub in just how ignorant I am.............still very, very cool and I am glad I don't have funds for one or I'd be tempted, just cuz.

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Now that is just slick and something else that I didn't even know existed. Just another example of how 'not so smart' that I am . :blink: Very nice work, Rick. :coolsmiley:

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Cool stuff Rick! What 3D modeler do you use? I use SolidWorks.

 

Right now I am using blender. It is free and that is the main advantage. Looked at openscad - more of a programming language but usable.

 

Blender is not really a cad package but it can make parts fairly well. Does Solidworks have any free versions? I have heard that autodesk has an online free version to use but have not looked into it.

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No, I use SW at work. Not sure if there are any easy to use, free 3D modelers out there or not.

Edited by ghoot

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Really cool stuff guys I hope to upgrade my computer before too long and really hope I can swing a 3d when I do. I'd love to try some multi part custom cases. However if I do I'll have to design a new board, then probibly test some newer cameras to go with it, an then..........

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We use this a work all the time using Solidworks. NEVER thought of this! We use it for 1off tooling. Now I am thinking.

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One of the guys here got some snorkels 3D printed

 

the snorkels are pretty neat

 

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Edited by johnnydeerhunter

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