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ILfarmer

Trail Cam Build Sheet

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I am about to order the remaining parts to do my first build. I am planning on building a fast hacked S600 with a Bigfoot board. I would like to order everything in one shot so I can finish it up next weekend!

 

Things I Have

-S600

-Pelican 1060

 

Things I need to order

-Bigfoot board (S40/S600 fast hacked, with Trail Master)

-HPWA/Bigfoot Easy Alignment Mount

-0.9 Focal length High Performance Wide Angle Fresnel Lens (black/with black lens)

-(2) 1-1/4 (1.24") Round AR(Anti Reflective) Glass 1mm thin

-Stainless Security Tube

 

I plan on sourcing all my parts from Snap Shot Sniper. The only remaining questions I have are what thickness of foam do I need to order for the flash gasket and backing foam? Is there anything else that I may be missing, or any other things I should consider before proceeding? Thanks in advance for all the help!

 

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I would add a 3/8 flash gasket and various thickness of foam for back of camera. Are you planning on adding external power? If so then would order a 2 bay battery holder. You can use regular glass instead of the AR glass as the AR glass is a pain to clean. You going to hard wire the camera or use a servo? Might want to order a rope seal too

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As Ken said use a 3/8" gasket. I built a S600 just like you are doing and the 3/8" gasket worked great. In addition use plain glass and don't spare the Goop when assembling it!!

 

The Bigfoot board worked great as well. Gary at Snapshot Sniper is a class act.

 

I used two C-cell NiMH rechargeable batteries for external power.

 

Bill

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Since you have the larger case I would suggest going with externals, I like D cells and the D cell holder can double as the camera shelf. I also prefer U-bolts in the 1060 rather than the security tube. 3/8 flash gasket will work nicely and the rope seal is worth the couple of dollars. The AR glass is sometimes difficult to clean but worth it in IMO. After a few years of use just use some toothpaste and a q-tip to make it like new again. You could get plain glass for the flash and AR for the lens if you wanted to. I like the servo because you can run the smaller wires inside the camera which makes it easier to fit inside and have the larger wires to run to the board. A 5 wire servo will work, use the battery negative as your common and it's one less wire to solder inside. Use the all 30 ga wire for inside the camera, don't need the heavier wire for the externals, again IMO.

 

Here's a layout I like, it's with the LCD Sniper but the Bigfoot works just the same.

 

849D665E-80EF-46E1-BE6A-3CEBF23181AF-32319-0000116A76F8BC3F.jpg

 

50412AEC-8F46-4D0A-B21F-438E358EFFE4-32319-0000116B8C78B5DE.jpg

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Sooner or later you'll want to take the camera out of the build for one reason or another. Using a servo makes changing out the camera much easier, especially in the field.

 

I prefer a piece of plastic water pipe to the steel tube for the pipethrough. 1/2" inside diameter water pipe has a 5/8" outside diameter and the 1/2" ID makes it much easier to slide a Python lock's cable through the build. The water pipe is available at hardware stores and is really cheap -- a two foot piece will provide plenty for your future builds.

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Everyone has their own way of doing things. That's what makes this addiction hobby so great.

I prefer to have the batteries on the bottom in case they leak. That way they won't ruin the electronics underneath.

Also, I think most people avoid using rechargeable batteries foe external power. Alkalines work better.

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Are there any good threads on adding externals? I haven't really looked into it, but I wouldn't be opposed to doing that as well.

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