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pdskal

Crittergetter Pl200ir Build In Progress

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A look into the upper and lower project box. I use a custom capacitor in my builds. I get them from Digikey # 565-2988-ND. I've been using these caps for several years now. Provides a nice robust flash, plus don't bleed off much. Saves on batteries. When you think about it some of the stock vivitar caps are 20-30 years old. Over time they break down and lose efficiency. I correct that by adding a new cap. Good investment in my opinion.

 

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This where I'm mounting slave power. Two 4AA holders in parallel. This will give me plenty of juice for longer sets.

 

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I'm hoping this weekend I can get the electrical buttoned up.

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Paul...when you replace the slave caps,do you use the exact same size you are replacing?

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Paul...when you replace the slave caps,do you use the exact same size you are replacing?

 

I have only built with vivitar 2600 & 2800. Both models actually have a 2800A control board inside, but the caps are different sizes. The 2600 has a smaller cap as seen in my pic. I use the new cap for both. The uf capacity of the replacement cap is very similar to the stock 2800 cap. Around 330uf if I remember correctly.

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Twisting up my slave power leads with the drill. Take it nice and easy and they twist right up.

 

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For soldering I invested into this station. I really like it as you can control temperature much easier than the cheapo RS irons. I have used for countless builds and it has treated me well. They also offer several types of tips, so you can experiment and set yourself up with the best tip for your particular soldering style.

 

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Worked on the build this morning to finish up the wiring.

 

Ran the phototransistor (PT) out of the lower project box up to the void in the internal snorkel by the camera flash. Secured it to the inside of the case with some packaging tape. For the flat PT, make sure the dot or bump is facing the flash.

 

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I always tin the ends of the wires to give them a little extra strength. Also keeps the screws in green terminal block from smashing down the strands too much when tightening down.

 

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Boards mounted.

 

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Looking good. Thanks for the cap link. Where did you get the thick foam?

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Tighted up the on/off toggle in the lower right corner. The toggle will allow me to turn the Crittergetter Micro & Slavepro1 on & off. The push button on the board works great, but when inside the project box access was a little challenging. ;)

 

Here it is, the moment I've been waiting for!

 

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:cheers:

 

Time to move to the next phase, bench testing the build to make sure everything is working properly.

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Looking good. Thanks for the cap link. Where did you get the thick foam?

 

The thick foam is from Bigfoot Outdoors years ago. If you want thicker foam, just piggy back two 1/2" pieces and you'll have an inch. :)

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Looks great! Really enjoyed the build progress. So you wired one switch to turn on the crittergetter and the slave board? That's a great idea. Would prevent forgetting to turn on the slave board. I also like your inside snorkle. Hadn't seen that before.

Edited by Coyote08

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Looks great! Really enjoyed the build progress. So you wired one switch to turn on the crittergetter and the slave board? That's a great idea. Would prevent forgetting to turn on the slave board. I also like your inside snorkle. Hadn't seen that before.

 

Firemanjim has it designed to handshake with each other as long as you order the Crittergetter Slavepro1 option. You connect the two boards with 2 wires. CGA & CGG, the purple & gray wires in my picture. I say this because you can turn both on with the single push button on the CG Micro board. You do not have to add a remote toggle.

 

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