Finally got my hands on a Vivitar 2000 that has one version of the 31057 board (thanks to Hags member Rtwill78).
Below are the previously posted low power mods (step 1 and 2 below) which work great, and I also recommend removal of the 22K ohm resistor (step 3 below) to totally isolate the bounce back circuit components that are no longer used. I have also included instructions on elimination of the large external yellow capacitor (step 4 and 5 below).
Low power mods.1) Remove the 1Meg resistor (or clip one leg), or remove the Neon light.
2) Remove the 10K ohm resistor (or clip one leg).
3) Remove the 22K ohm resistor (or clip one leg).
Note : you can also eliminate the bounce back detector by unsoldering the wires that go to it (or cut the wires), and this was done to the board in the pictures shown.
31057_Pic1.jpg ( 94.61K )
Number of downloads: 139Removal of the external 3.3ufd capacitor (large yellow capacitor)4) Unsolder the wires on the board that go to the large yellow external 3.3 ufd capacitor (or cut the wires).
5) Jumper pin 1 and pin 2 together on the SCR (part number CR3AMZ).
31057_Pic2.jpg ( 90.85K )
Number of downloads: 151Note : The board shown in the pictures was not in working order when I received it and I had to replace a few of the components (that is why the inverter transistor looks small compared with the original transistor that is found on the 31057 board. The original transistor was a 2SC3420, and I replaced it with a 2SC2500 which I had on hand). Also some of the wires may not be located the same as if the board were in original condition, and there are a couple of jumpers on the back of the board that were needed to repair melted traces.
I believe there are two different versions of the 31057 board, so the mods I show above are for the board with the copper trace pattern shown in the above picture.
(As always modification of commerical products is done at your own risk. Use extreme caution since high voltage exists within flash units. Take proper steps to assure all energy has been discharged (from the capactiors, etc.), before touching any component within the flash unit.)
Enjoy,
Don
This post has been edited by dkirk: Sep 6 2006, 09:27 AM