 Homebrew Lumenock, Build your own |
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 Nov 1 2006, 12:21 AM
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#1
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 Kissed the Ring - Made me sick!  Posts: 533 Joined: 31-July 03 From: Greenwood, Arkansas Member No.: 93  |
I built some "homebrew Lighted Nocks" tonight. They work great and arn't that much trouble to make.
 They ended up costing me about $3.80 each. I put together a quick page on how to build them if you are interested. I appologize for the bad pictures but thats the best I could get tonight. Homebrew Lumenock This post has been edited by Arkansaselkhunter: Nov 1 2006, 12:27 AM  |
  
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Nov 1 2006, 06:17 AM
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#2
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 "First Leper in the Colony" Posts: 7,414 Joined: 17-July 03 From: NW Arkansas Member No.: 3 |
WAY COOL Mike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Butch
I'm an Engineer. Engineers build civilizations – I leave it to politicians to destroy them - Melanie "the Republican brand is in the trash can...if we were dog food, they would take us off the shelf.- Rep. Tom Davis Ignorance begets fear Fear begets anger Anger begets hatred |
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Nov 1 2006, 06:48 AM
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#3
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Kissed the Ring - Made me sick! Posts: 533 Joined: 31-July 03 From: Greenwood, Arkansas Member No.: 93 |
Looks like Vman did these a year ago. Vmans Lumenock His method might be easier too, but this way is solderless and you can change the battery but you probably won't ever need to.
BTW, you can get the battery and LED from Digikey. Search for BR435 for the battery and the LED I used was a 600 mcd T1. They have some brighter oned but these are pretty bright. I diddnn't want to get too much current going as the batteries are only rated for 50ma continous current. They should burn it for 4 to 6 hours though. |
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Nov 12 2006, 06:13 AM
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#4
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 Advanced Member Posts: 756 Joined: 25-February 04 From: Maumelle, Arkansas Member No.: 412 |
hey mike,
do yo have a part number for the battery and led? I found the battery I think (P139-ND BATTERY LITHIUM 50MAH PIN TYPE ) $2.94 each LED (couldn't find) cause I just aint good with such a big choice, Is it 3mm or 5mm? Is the heat shrink tubing 1/8 size? I am gonna try and make some of these along with hillhopper soon ABH |
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Nov 12 2006, 02:06 PM
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#5
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Kissed the Ring - Made me sick! Posts: 533 Joined: 31-July 03 From: Greenwood, Arkansas Member No.: 93 |
365-1171-ND led IT'S 1100MCD anything between 600 and 1200 mcd (brightness) will work pretty good. The brighter you get the more expensive they get. The one listed is $0.52 each. It's T1 or 3mm size. I actually had some 600mcd ones from jameco. Keep them below 2.5 volts.
1/8" is fine Heat shrink Thats the right battery This post has been edited by Arkansaselkhunter: Nov 12 2006, 02:07 PM |
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Nov 12 2006, 03:34 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Posts: 756 Joined: 25-February 04 From: Maumelle, Arkansas Member No.: 412 |
mike, what size wire would work if I don't have a resistor.
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Nov 12 2006, 05:03 PM
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#7
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"First Leper in the Colony" Posts: 7,414 Joined: 17-July 03 From: NW Arkansas Member No.: 3 |
Mike I plan on using 26 gage. Sound ok to you?
Butch
I'm an Engineer. Engineers build civilizations – I leave it to politicians to destroy them - Melanie "the Republican brand is in the trash can...if we were dog food, they would take us off the shelf.- Rep. Tom Davis Ignorance begets fear Fear begets anger Anger begets hatred |
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Nov 12 2006, 08:36 PM
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#8
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Kissed the Ring - Made me sick! Posts: 533 Joined: 31-July 03 From: Greenwood, Arkansas Member No.: 93 |
26 ga will work I'm sure but it needs to be solid not stranded so it does not get pulled into the nock as you push the battery in. Check the fit of the battery and wire both in the nock. It needs to be tight but not too tight. Buy a couple extra led's . you may mess up a couple like me.
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Dec 9 2006, 08:43 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Posts: 756 Joined: 25-February 04 From: Maumelle, Arkansas Member No.: 412 |
thanks AEH, HH and I dove in and built us up some. there is a slight learning curve to make these. I found I didn't need the shrink tube inside the gold tip nocks. We discovered to leave the positive lead long as it acts as a guide to help pull the led into the nock through your .030 hole. once you have your led situated cut remaing tag. I didn't glue the led to the neg post on the battery but HH soldered his for a tighter fit. I found that if my coil on the led was tight I could slide the battery up into it and add just a little epoxy to the battery right before the neg post was pushed all the way into the coil. so far seems to hold it okay. I also, took my dremel and shaved very lightly to the outside of the nock before installing everything to make it easier for the nock to slide in and out of the arrow shaft which makes it easier for me to turn on and off lighted nock. THANKS A TON MIKE FOR THE INFO
 . I just wanted to share a few of my blunders and tips I found when I made the first batch. I got 6 made up and only ruined 2 led's. They all work great and are in my quiver. Gonna have to fill my recurve quiver now. The take about 5 minutes to make each. best to get an assembly line before you epoxy the battery in. It doesn't take much epoxy and I applied it to the battery with toothpick. 
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Dec 14 2006, 08:56 AM
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#10
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 Member Posts: 28 Joined: 27-November 06 Member No.: 3,835 |
Have you guys seen the youtube version on this. Its pretty quick and easy with no soldering also.
Luminock - Youtube This post has been edited by novocon: Dec 14 2006, 08:57 AM |
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Dec 15 2006, 06:49 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Posts: 756 Joined: 25-February 04 From: Maumelle, Arkansas Member No.: 412 |
tried the youtube way and ruined 3 bobber lights. mikes way is the easiest and best way IMO I have found. I have built 6 and only ruined 2 led lights. I posted some of my tips above to expand on mikes way. the problem I had with the youtube way is if you get the super glue on the light it shorts it out when you try to shove it into the nock. mikes way requires no extra drilling out of the nock at the end either. each nock takes about 5 minutes to build. I just do an assembly line so I don't have to mix different batches of epoxy. Still the best method. thanks a million mike for showing us how to do it.
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Dec 17 2006, 02:39 PM
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#12
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Member Posts: 28 Joined: 27-November 06 Member No.: 3,835 |
I must have had the golden thumb that day..lol. I made three and quit and they all worked. I'll give Mike's way a try next.
Thanks for all your work guys! Aaron |
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Jan 22 2007, 03:06 PM
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#13
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 Member Posts: 25 Joined: 10-January 07 Member No.: 4,195 |
I have one quick question about Mike's way. If I understand the instructions right the led + touches the shaft on one side of the nock and the + "switch" touches the shaft on the other side of the nock. Is the shaft used to complete the + side of the circuit?
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Jan 22 2007, 05:09 PM
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#14
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"First Leper in the Colony" Posts: 7,414 Joined: 17-July 03 From: NW Arkansas Member No.: 3 |
The carbon acts as a conductor with approx the correct resistor value as if you put a resistor from the + to the led. It closes the circuit.
Butch
I'm an Engineer. Engineers build civilizations – I leave it to politicians to destroy them - Melanie "the Republican brand is in the trash can...if we were dog food, they would take us off the shelf.- Rep. Tom Davis Ignorance begets fear Fear begets anger Anger begets hatred |
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Jan 23 2007, 08:06 AM
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#15
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Member Posts: 25 Joined: 10-January 07 Member No.: 4,195 |
Thanks, I am going to try this out.
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